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Ingredients and definitions
(not all ingredients
within this index are in our products)
HEALTH-RELATED
INFORMATION
The information contained in the Website is provided for
informational purposes only and is not meant to substitute
for the advice provided by your doctor or other health care
professional. You should not use the information available
on or through the Website for diagnosing or treating a
health problem or disease, or prescribing any medication.
Information and statements regarding ingredients have
not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration and
are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any
disease. You should read carefully all product packaging
prior to use
Acetate
an acetic
acid salt; the word that follows or precedes acetate on an
ingredient list determines the function.
Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol
An alcohol that is not drying. Helps soften skin; is highly
comedogenic (causes blackheads and/or whiteheads).
Alcohol SD-40
sometimes listed as SD Alcohol 40 and synonymous with alcohol
SDA-40, it is a high grade purified cosmetic alcohol.
Evaporates instantly, so it is used as a vehicle to transport
important ingredients to the skin's surface and then leave
them there; gentler to the skin than ethyl (rubbing) alcohol.
May help kill bacteria.
Algae/Seaweed Extract
an emollient, restoring moisture content to skin; claims to
have antioxidant properties.
Allantoin
a botanical
thought to have skin calming properties; possibly reduces
irritation.
Alpha Hydroxy Acid
an active ingredient derived from fruit acids. Helps exfoliate
the top layers of the epidermis: promotes moisture restoration
and helps penetration of other ingredients; highly sought
after for use in anti-aging and bleaching skin care products.
May irritate the skin especially if overused. Buffering the pH
helps make them less irritating to the skin, but also reduces
exfoliating effect. AHA's include: citric acid (citrus
fruits), glycolic acid (sugar cane), lactic acid (milk), and
the less common AHAs used in cosmetics malic acid (apples) and
tartaric acid (wine). AHAs increase sun sensitivity due to
their exfoliant behavior. Alpha Lipoic Acid: an antioxidant;
is both water and fat soluble so it can protect many areas of
a cell. Also, has anti-inflammatory properties.
Aminophylline
Studies have indicated that women who used a skin
cream containing Aminophylline have lost inches in a matter
of weeks. Independent studies have used skin creams
containing the active ingredient, Aminophylline, to test its
effectiveness in reducing fatty thigh areas. Reductions of
one-fourth to one and one-half inches are common.
Aminophylline works like this: Fat cells have beta
receptors, that, when stimulated, give off fat. The beta
receptors create a hormone called cyclic AMP, which
stimulates the second step. Phosphodiesterase gets in
the way, breaking down the cyclic AMP and preventing it from
breaking fat down further. Studies have shown Aminophylline
inhibits phosphodiesterase, preventing it from interfering
with the cyclic AMP and fat breakdown. In terms,
Aminophylline stimulates blood flow and circulation in the
fatty tissue area so that the body can naturally flush and
burned fatty deposits.
Antioxidants
antioxidants are substances that neutralize free radicals.
Damage by free radicals is one of the key mechanisms of the
aging process. Also, free radicals mediate many forms of
inflammation. Antioxidants reduce the skin's exposure to free
radicals. Not all antioxidants are not created equal, they
vary by the range of activity, solubility in oil and water,
and other properties. Binding Agents: Substances that hold
products together and prevents separation of the water and
lipid components. The most important binding agents in skin
care are emulsifiers (see below).
Ascorbic Acid vitamin C
an antioxidant and stimulant of collagen synthesis by
skin cells (fibroblasts). Can also have skin lightening effect
in certain preparations. Only L-ascorbic acid (as opposed to
D-ascorbic acid) is effective.
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Vitamin C derivative Good antioxidant but less
effective than vitamin C for stimulating collagen synthesis.
Beeswax: waxy component in many skin care products; provides
moisture as well as a barrier mechanism. Also, an emulsifier
(helps oil and water blending). May be mildly comedogenic.
Beta Hydroxy Acid a subclass of
organic acids; the most common one is salicylic acid, a long
term ingredient used for exfoliation of dry skin as well as
for acne therapy. Boric Acid: an antiseptic used as a
preservative to prevent yeast overgrowth. May be irritating.
Caffeine used to alleviate
puffiness under eyes, also used in many products for
cellulite.
Camphor a cooling agent; may help
alleviate the symptoms of itching and irritation.
Carbomers (934, 940, 941, 980, 981) stabilizers and
thickeners common in skin care products.
Cellulose polymer from plant cell
walls; used as a thickener and emulsifier.
Ceramides
epidermal hydrating agent; expensive due to scarcity.
Ceteareth: cetearyl and stearyl alcohols combined for use as a
lubricant.
Cetyl Alcohol lubricant and
emulsifier. Nonirritating, nondrying, noncomedogenic.
Collagen: the main supporting fiber located within the dermis,
gives strength and provides structure.
Collagen
a major
component of skin that gives it structure. Sun damage causes
collagen in skin to deteriorate. Collagen is derived from
animal sources but plant derivatives that act like collagen
(pseudo-collagen) are also used. In any form, collagen is a
good water-binding agent.
Cyclic Acid a new term for
Hyaluronic Acid: an effective humectant/moisturizing agent.
Cyclomethicone form
of silicone; gives products a smooth texture; noncomedogenic
Delivery Enhancers/Systems
Ingredients that enhance delivery of other ingredients into
the skin and/or insider skin cells.
Dimethicone a form of silcone;
skin protectant; moisture sealant; noncomedogenic; has been
used in some scar therapies.
EDTA preservative; slows down
degradation (e.g. oxidation) of ingredients by chelating
(grabbing and shielding) catalytic trace metals; may cause
contact dermatitis. Elastin: a fiber within the dermis similar
to collagen, gives support and "snap" to the skin. In topicals,
it cannot penetrate the skin, but does have moisturizing
effect.
Ellagic Acid naturally occurring
ingredient; helps inhibit the formation of sun and age spots.
Elastin: In cosmetic
products, elastin is used as a moisturizer it is thought to
form a film on skin that helps lock in moisture.
Ethyl Alcohol aka rubbing alcohol
or ethanol; has antibacterial activity; usually too strong for
regular use in cosmetics; very drying at high concentrations;
sometimes used in astringents and toners. Use moisturizer
after using anything with ethanol. FD&C Dyes: dyes approved by
FDA for food, drug, and cosmetic use. Fragrance: an aromatic
blend of natural essential oils and/or synthetic fragrance
substances. Free Radical Scavengers: another term for
antioxidant
Emulsifiers Emulsion is a smooth
blend of oil and water. Since most skin care product formulas
include both water and oil soluble ingredients, emulsions are
very popular in skin care. Most creams and lotions are
emulsions. However, emulsions are unstable and quickly
separate. Emulsifiers are substances that stabilize emulsions
and prevent products from separating. Emollients: Substances
that smooth and soften the skin. There exist a wide variety of
emollients, each providing its own individual texture to the
skin.
Glycerin hydrates and provides a
skin barrier against loss of moisure; allows topical agents to
go on very smoothly; may clog pores when present in high
concentrations.
Glycine amino acid vital to
collagen synthesis; it is unclear if applying glycine
topically affects collagen synthesis.
Glycogen
natural sugar (glucose) based polymer somewhat similar to
starch; acts as a conditioner.
Glycolic Acid
exfoliant, used in a wide range of exfoliating
products, from exfoliating lotions to chemical peels. May
improve fine lines. Overuse can cause skin irritation and
other skin damage.
Glycol Stearate thickening agent
that helps give products a luminescent or opalescent
appearance.
Grape Seed Extract a botanical
extract shown to be an effective antioxidant
Green Tea Extract a botanical
extract shown to be an effective antioxidant
Humectants Substances that can
attract water, usually out of the air. By definition, all are
also moisturizers. In fact, any good moisturizer has to
contain potent humectants. Lubricants: Substances that make
skin feel smoother to the touch and reduce friction; more
common in hand creams.
Isopropyl Isostearate
emollient.
Isopropyl
Palmitate emollient usually derived from palm
and/or coconut oil; may be comedogenic.
Isostearic
Acid fatty acid that forms
a film on the skin; may be comedogenic.
Kaolin
(China Clay)
used in
oil-absorbing powders and masques; highly absorbent.
Lanolin emollient and moisturizer;
obtained from sheep; a sensitizer like other wool derivatives,
in eczema-prone individuals
Lecithin
emollient and emulsifier.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate a
vitamin C derivative; more stable than vitamin C; has
comparable effectiveness as collagen synthesis booster.
Methyl Gluceth a humectant/moisturizing
agent.
Methylparaben/Propylparaben
Food grade preservative. One of the most commonly used
preservative in cosmetics today; nonirritating, nonsensitizing
and nontoxic. May be comedoenic in susceptible persons.
Mineral Oil a liquid blend of
petroleum hydrocarbons obtained. An effective solvent for
removing oil, grease and makeup from the skin. Comedogenic.
May be drying with prolonged use. Most companies no longer use
mineral oil in products; vegetable oils have been found to be
as effective and more skin friendly.
Mucopolysacchaildes
safe and effective humectants.
Myristyl Myristate emollient; an
ester of myristyl alcohol and myristic acid.
Panthenol a B vitamin (B5), works
as a humectant (holds water in the skin). May promote skin
healing.
Parabens One
of the most commonly used group of preservatives in cosmetics
today; nonirritating and nonsensitizing. Methyl paraben may
degrade releasing methanol, a potentially toxic chemical. To
what degree this actualy occurs in skin care products is
unclear. Various forms exist, name ending in (e.g. methyl
paraben, ethyl paraben, etc.).
Preservatives Substances that kill
detrimental bacteria, yeast and/or molds, thus prevent
spoilage. While some preservatives may occasionally be
irritating to the skin, the use of products spoiled by
microorganisms may be equally or more damaging. Sometimes
antioxidants and stabilizers are also referred to as
preservatives because they inhibit chemical degradation of
products. Solvents: Substances, such as alcohol or water,
which dissolve other ingredients. Surfactants: wetting agents,
substances capable of reducing the surface tension of a liquid
in which it is dissolved. In skin care, surfactants enable a
topical product to easily spread and glide across the skin.
Vehicle: The base that carries the active ingredients.
Resveratrol
antioxidant which supports and protects collagen; may also
inhibit some mechanisms of aging by modulating gene activity.
Retinol form
of vitamin A; fat soluble; depending upon concentration,
estimated to be approximately 10 times less effective than
tretinoin; relatively unstable. May irritate skin in high
concentrations.
Retinal form
of vitamin A; fat soluble; less effective than tretinoin;
relatively unstable. May irritate skin in high concentrations.
Retinyl Palmitate (also known as
Vitamin A Palmitate); ester of retinol combined with palmitic
acid, considered a more stable alternative to retinol or
retinal for normalizing the skin's texture and helping smooth
out fine lines. Less irritating than retinol.
Retinyl Palmitate Polypeptide
water soluble formulation of Vitamin A.
Rose Hip
botanical extract of rose petals found to have high
concentrations of vitamin C.
Triclosan commonly used as a
preservative; believed to be hypoallergenic.
Tyrosine amino acid that may
potentiate the effect of vitamin C on collagen synthesis by
fibroblasts; plays a role in melanin formation.
Unipertan V-242: A totally vegetable form of unipertan,
providing tyrosine (an amino acid essential to the tanning
process) and adenosine triphosphate (a vegetable catalyst to
the tanning process), in a vegetable collagen base.
Vitamin A important for skin
renewal; may improve skin texture and fine lines; may improve
acne. Less effective and less irritating than tretinoin.
Causes sun sensitivity and not to be used if pregnant or
nursing.
Vitamin
C (L-ascorbic acid) boosts collagen synthesis by
fibroblasts; vital water soluble antioxidant both systemically
as and topically. Unstable in solution when exposed to air.
Vitamin D regulates cell turn
over; prescription derivatives of vitamin D are used to treat
psoriasis (Dovonex).
Vitamin E (Tocopherol) an oil
soluble antioxidant widely used in skin care; also an
emollient.
Water Most
frequently listed main ingredient in skin care products, used
in its purest form, void of minerals and other chemicals,
hence the various names like distilled, deionized, purified,
etc.
Witch Hazel botanical with
astringent properties, helps remove excess surface skin oils.
The above
ingredients are definitions and not all are within our
products it is only to update you. The information contained
on this site is general in nature and is intended for use as
an educational aid. It does not cover all possible uses,
actions, precautions, side effects, or interactions of the
products shown, nor is the information intended as medical
advice or diagnosis for individual health problems or for
making an evaluation as to the risks and benefits of using a
particular product. You should carefully read all product
packaging. If you have or suspect that you have a medical
problem, promptly contact your health care provider.
Information and statements regarding dietary supplements have
not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration and are
not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.
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