Ingredients and definitions (not all ingredients within this index are in our products)

HEALTH-RELATED INFORMATION
The information contained in the Website is provided for informational purposes only and is not meant to substitute for the advice provided by your doctor or other health care professional. You should not use the information available on or through the Website for diagnosing or treating a health problem or disease, or prescribing any medication. Information and statements regarding ingredients have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration and are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. You should read carefully all product packaging prior to use
 

Acetate an acetic acid salt; the word that follows or precedes acetate on an ingredient list determines the function.

Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol An alcohol that is not drying. Helps soften skin; is highly comedogenic (causes blackheads and/or whiteheads).

Alcohol SD-40 sometimes listed as SD Alcohol 40 and synonymous with alcohol SDA-40, it is a high grade purified cosmetic alcohol. Evaporates instantly, so it is used as a vehicle to transport important ingredients to the skin's surface and then leave them there; gentler to the skin than ethyl (rubbing) alcohol. May help kill bacteria.

Algae/Seaweed Extract an emollient, restoring moisture content to skin; claims to have antioxidant properties.

Allantoin a botanical thought to have skin calming properties; possibly reduces irritation.

Alpha Hydroxy Acid an active ingredient derived from fruit acids. Helps exfoliate the top layers of the epidermis: promotes moisture restoration and helps penetration of other ingredients; highly sought after for use in anti-aging and bleaching skin care products. May irritate the skin especially if overused. Buffering the pH helps make them less irritating to the skin, but also reduces exfoliating effect. AHA's include: citric acid (citrus fruits), glycolic acid (sugar cane), lactic acid (milk), and the less common AHAs used in cosmetics malic acid (apples) and tartaric acid (wine). AHAs increase sun sensitivity due to their exfoliant behavior. Alpha Lipoic Acid: an antioxidant; is both water and fat soluble so it can protect many areas of a cell. Also, has anti-inflammatory properties.

Aminophylline Studies have indicated that women who used a skin cream containing Aminophylline have lost inches in a matter of weeks. Independent studies have used skin creams containing the active ingredient, Aminophylline, to test its effectiveness in reducing fatty thigh areas. Reductions of one-fourth to one and one-half inches are common. Aminophylline works like this: Fat cells have beta receptors, that, when stimulated, give off fat. The beta receptors create a hormone called cyclic AMP, which stimulates the second step.  Phosphodiesterase gets in the way, breaking down the cyclic AMP and preventing it from breaking fat down further. Studies have shown Aminophylline inhibits phosphodiesterase, preventing it from interfering with the cyclic AMP and fat breakdown. In  terms, Aminophylline stimulates blood flow and circulation in the fatty tissue area so that the body can naturally flush and burned fatty deposits.

Antioxidants antioxidants are substances that neutralize free radicals. Damage by free radicals is one of the key mechanisms of the aging process. Also, free radicals mediate many forms of inflammation. Antioxidants reduce the skin's exposure to free radicals. Not all antioxidants are not created equal, they vary by the range of activity, solubility in oil and water, and other properties. Binding Agents: Substances that hold products together and prevents separation of the water and lipid components. The most important binding agents in skin care are emulsifiers (see below).

Ascorbic Acid vitamin C an antioxidant and stimulant of collagen synthesis by skin cells (fibroblasts). Can also have skin lightening effect in certain preparations. Only L-ascorbic acid (as opposed to D-ascorbic acid) is effective.

Ascorbyl Palmitate Vitamin C derivative Good antioxidant but less effective than vitamin C for stimulating collagen synthesis. Beeswax: waxy component in many skin care products; provides moisture as well as a barrier mechanism. Also, an emulsifier (helps oil and water blending). May be mildly comedogenic.

Beta Hydroxy Acid a subclass of organic acids; the most common one is salicylic acid, a long term ingredient used for exfoliation of dry skin as well as for acne therapy. Boric Acid: an antiseptic used as a preservative to prevent yeast overgrowth. May be irritating.

Caffeine used to alleviate puffiness under eyes, also used in many products for cellulite.

Camphor a cooling agent; may help alleviate the symptoms of itching and irritation.

Carbomers (934, 940, 941, 980, 981) stabilizers and thickeners common in skin care products.

Cellulose polymer from plant cell walls; used as a thickener and emulsifier.

Ceramides epidermal hydrating agent; expensive due to scarcity. Ceteareth: cetearyl and stearyl alcohols combined for use as a lubricant.

Cetyl Alcohol lubricant and emulsifier. Nonirritating, nondrying, noncomedogenic. Collagen: the main supporting fiber located within the dermis, gives strength and provides structure.

Collagen a major component of skin that gives it structure. Sun damage causes collagen in skin to deteriorate. Collagen is derived from animal sources but plant derivatives that act like collagen (pseudo-collagen) are also used. In any form, collagen is a good water-binding agent.

Cyclic Acid a new term for Hyaluronic Acid: an effective humectant/moisturizing agent.

Cyclomethicone form of silicone; gives products a smooth texture; noncomedogenic

Delivery Enhancers/Systems Ingredients that enhance delivery of other ingredients into the skin and/or insider skin cells.

Dimethicone a form of silcone; skin protectant; moisture sealant; noncomedogenic; has been used in some scar therapies.

 EDTA  preservative; slows down degradation (e.g. oxidation) of ingredients by chelating (grabbing and shielding) catalytic trace metals; may cause contact dermatitis. Elastin: a fiber within the dermis similar to collagen, gives support and "snap" to the skin. In topicals, it cannot penetrate the skin, but does have moisturizing effect.

Ellagic Acid naturally occurring ingredient; helps inhibit the formation of sun and age spots.

Elastin: In cosmetic products, elastin is used as a moisturizer it is thought to form a film on skin that helps lock in moisture.
 

Ethyl Alcohol aka rubbing alcohol or ethanol; has antibacterial activity; usually too strong for regular use in cosmetics; very drying at high concentrations; sometimes used in astringents and toners. Use moisturizer after using anything with ethanol. FD&C Dyes: dyes approved by FDA for food, drug, and cosmetic use. Fragrance: an aromatic blend of natural essential oils and/or synthetic fragrance substances. Free Radical Scavengers: another term for antioxidant

Emulsifiers Emulsion is a smooth blend of oil and water. Since most skin care product formulas include both water and oil soluble ingredients, emulsions are very popular in skin care. Most creams and lotions are emulsions. However, emulsions are unstable and quickly separate. Emulsifiers are substances that stabilize emulsions and prevent products from separating. Emollients: Substances that smooth and soften the skin. There exist a wide variety of emollients, each providing its own individual texture to the skin.

Glycerin hydrates and provides a skin barrier against loss of moisure; allows topical agents to go on very smoothly; may clog pores when present in high concentrations.

Glycine amino acid vital to collagen synthesis; it is unclear if applying glycine topically affects collagen synthesis.

Glycogen natural sugar (glucose) based polymer somewhat similar to starch; acts as a conditioner.

Glycolic Acid exfoliant, used in a wide range of exfoliating products, from exfoliating lotions to chemical peels. May improve fine lines. Overuse can cause skin irritation and other skin damage.

Glycol Stearate thickening agent that helps give products a luminescent or opalescent appearance.

Grape Seed Extract a botanical extract shown to be an effective antioxidant

Green Tea Extract a botanical extract shown to be an effective antioxidant

Humectants Substances that can attract water, usually out of the air. By definition, all are also moisturizers. In fact, any good moisturizer has to contain potent humectants. Lubricants: Substances that make skin feel smoother to the touch and reduce friction; more common in hand creams.

 Isopropyl Isostearate emollient.

Isopropyl Palmitate emollient usually derived from palm and/or coconut oil; may be comedogenic.

Isostearic Acid  fatty acid that forms a film on the skin; may be comedogenic.

 Kaolin (China Clay) used in oil-absorbing powders and masques; highly absorbent.

Lanolin emollient and moisturizer; obtained from sheep; a sensitizer like other wool derivatives, in eczema-prone individuals

Lecithin emollient and emulsifier.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate a vitamin C derivative; more stable than vitamin C; has comparable effectiveness as collagen synthesis booster.

Methyl Gluceth a humectant/moisturizing agent.

Methylparaben/Propylparaben Food grade preservative. One of the most commonly used preservative in cosmetics today; nonirritating, nonsensitizing and nontoxic. May be comedoenic in susceptible persons.

Mineral Oil a liquid blend of petroleum hydrocarbons obtained. An effective solvent for removing oil, grease and makeup from the skin. Comedogenic. May be drying with prolonged use. Most companies no longer use mineral oil in products; vegetable oils have been found to be as effective and more skin friendly.

Mucopolysacchaildes safe and effective humectants.

Myristyl Myristate emollient; an ester of myristyl alcohol and myristic acid.

Panthenol a B vitamin (B5), works as a humectant (holds water in the skin). May promote skin healing.

Parabens One of the most commonly used group of preservatives in cosmetics today; nonirritating and nonsensitizing. Methyl paraben may degrade releasing methanol, a potentially toxic chemical. To what degree this actualy occurs in skin care products is unclear. Various forms exist, name ending in (e.g. methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, etc.).

Preservatives Substances that kill detrimental bacteria, yeast and/or molds, thus prevent spoilage. While some preservatives may occasionally be irritating to the skin, the use of products spoiled by microorganisms may be equally or more damaging. Sometimes antioxidants and stabilizers are also referred to as preservatives because they inhibit chemical degradation of products. Solvents: Substances, such as alcohol or water, which dissolve other ingredients. Surfactants: wetting agents, substances capable of reducing the surface tension of a liquid in which it is dissolved. In skin care, surfactants enable a topical product to easily spread and glide across the skin. Vehicle: The base that carries the active ingredients.

Resveratrol antioxidant which supports and protects collagen; may also inhibit some mechanisms of aging by modulating gene activity.

Retinol form of vitamin A; fat soluble; depending upon concentration, estimated to be approximately 10 times less effective than tretinoin; relatively unstable. May irritate skin in high concentrations.

Retinal form of vitamin A; fat soluble; less effective than tretinoin; relatively unstable. May irritate skin in high concentrations.

Retinyl Palmitate (also known as Vitamin A Palmitate); ester of retinol combined with palmitic acid, considered a more stable alternative to retinol or retinal for normalizing the skin's texture and helping smooth out fine lines. Less irritating than retinol.

Retinyl Palmitate Polypeptide  water soluble formulation of Vitamin A.

Rose Hip botanical extract of rose petals found to have high concentrations of vitamin C.

Triclosan commonly used as a preservative; believed to be hypoallergenic.

Tyrosine amino acid that may potentiate the effect of vitamin C on collagen synthesis by fibroblasts; plays a role in melanin formation.
Unipertan V-242: A totally vegetable form of unipertan, providing tyrosine (an amino acid essential to the tanning process) and adenosine triphosphate (a vegetable catalyst to the tanning process), in a vegetable collagen base.

Vitamin A important for skin renewal; may improve skin texture and fine lines; may improve acne. Less effective and less irritating than tretinoin. Causes sun sensitivity and not to be used if pregnant or nursing.

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) boosts collagen synthesis by fibroblasts; vital water soluble antioxidant both systemically as and topically. Unstable in solution when exposed to air.

Vitamin D regulates cell turn over; prescription derivatives of vitamin D are used to treat psoriasis (Dovonex).

Vitamin E (Tocopherol) an oil soluble antioxidant widely used in skin care; also an emollient.

Water Most frequently listed main ingredient in skin care products, used in its purest form, void of minerals and other chemicals, hence the various names like distilled, deionized, purified, etc.

Witch Hazel botanical with astringent properties, helps remove excess surface skin oils.

 The above ingredients are definitions and not all are within our products it is only to update you. The information contained on this site is general in nature and is intended for use as an educational aid. It does not cover all possible uses, actions, precautions, side effects, or interactions of the products shown, nor is the information intended as medical advice or diagnosis for individual health problems or for making an evaluation as to the risks and benefits of using a particular product. You should carefully read all product packaging. If you have or suspect that you have a medical problem, promptly contact your health care provider. Information and statements regarding dietary supplements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration and are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

      

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